Roma & Condesa

A Porfirian-era neighborhood built in the early 1900s for Mexico City's upper class, with tree-lined boulevards, Art Nouveau and Art Deco mansions, and elegant public fountains. The 1985 earthquake devastated the area — many buildings collapsed, killing thousands. The neighborhood's reconstruction attracted artists, restaurateurs, and a new creative class. Today Roma Norte is the culinary capital of Mexico City: Contramar (seafood), Rosetta (Italian-Mexican fusion), and Lardo (contemporary Mexican) rank among Latin America's best restaurants. The Jardin Pushkin and Plaza Rio de Janeiro with its replica David statue anchor daily life.

Walk along Alvaro Obregon boulevard for the best concentration of cafes, bookshops, and restaurants. The weekend tianguis (street market) on Orizaba street has antiques and vintage finds.

Built in the 1920s on the former grounds of a horse racing track, Condesa's distinctive oval street plan follows the old racetrack. The Art Deco buildings — Edificio Basurto (1945) is the most famous — represent Mexico City's finest collection of the style. Parque Mexico, designed on the hippodrome's former infield, is lined with Art Deco lampposts and benches. The neighborhood is Mexico City's most walkable: sidewalk cafes, independent bookshops, and the constant soundtrack of street musicians define daily life. The Condesa was the center of the Jewish community from the 1930s to 1970s.

Parque Mexico on a Sunday morning is peak Condesa — dog walkers, joggers, families, and the fountain surrounded by Art Deco details. Cafebreria El Pendulo on Nuevo Leon is a bookshop-cafe institution.